Waterfalls in the San Carlos Mountains
Discovering La Nativa, La Gloria, and El Retiro
In a previous article, I took you on a tour of three beautiful, easily accessible natural spots around San Carlos: Laguna de San Carlos, Las Filipinas, and El Manglarito.
Today, I’d like to invite you to go a little further.
These three new sites sometimes require a bit more planning, a slightly longer drive, and—depending on the season—a suitable vehicle or the help of a local guide.
But one thing is certain: the effort is well worth it.
Welcome to an even wilder Panama.
Cascada La Nativa: An Encounter with Nature… and Its Inhabitants
Travel time from Casa Fofo: about 65 to 75 minutes (40 km).
La Nativa isn’t just a waterfall. It’s also a wonderful human encounter.
The site is located on private property managed by the Medina family, who welcome visitors with warmth and simplicity and work to preserve this little corner of paradise.
As soon as you arrive, you quickly realize that you’re not in a typical tourist park. Here, everything feels more authentic.
The trail winds through lush vegetation before reaching a lovely waterfall about five meters high.
The pool at the base is perfect for cooling off, while the upper sections require extra caution due to slippery rocks.
If you have time, check with the Medina family: it’s sometimes possible to reserve a traditional meal prepared on-site.
It’s a great way to extend your exploration while directly supporting the locals.
Good to Know
- Travel time from Casa Fofo: 65 to 75 minutes.
- Admission is generally around 3 USD per person.
- Access via private property.
- Lunch is sometimes available by reservation.
- Bring cash.
Cascada La Gloria, the Queen of the Mountains
Travel time from Casa Fofo: approximately 1 hour 35 minutes to 1 hour 50 minutes (61 km).
If I had to choose the most impressive waterfall in this region, La Gloria would probably be my first choice.
Its dizzying drop towers over the rainforest and creates a setting that looks like something straight out of an adventure movie.
But this beauty has to be earned.
The main challenge isn’t the hike itself. It’s getting there.
After leaving the main road, you’ll need to travel several kilometers on a dirt road, the condition of which depends heavily on rainfall.
During the rainy season, a 4×4 vehicle or local transportation is often the wisest choice.
Once you arrive, the main trail is relatively short.
The sound of the waterfall accompanies you for the last few meters before the landscape suddenly opens up to reveal this immense waterfall.
Photography enthusiasts will be in heaven.
Between the cliffs, the lush vegetation, the giant ferns, and the tropical birds, every turn offers a new viewpoint.
This is definitely an excursion that requires a full day.
Good to Know
- Travel time from Casa Fofo: up to 1 hour and 50 minutes.
- The last few kilometers on the trail.
- A 4×4 is recommended depending on the season.
- Recommended local guide.
- Exercise extreme caution near the cliffs and the upper sections of the waterfall.
El Retiro, a river we love to return to
Travel time from Casa Fofo: about 55 to 70 minutes.
Even though El Retiro is located further toward Río Hato, it fully deserves its place on this list.
Unlike La Gloria, which impresses with its height, El Retiro charms visitors above all with its atmosphere.
People come here to spend a few hours by the water. You can park on the property of a Panamanian family who owns the El Retiro waterfall. Admission is $2 per person.
The water is clear and a pleasant temperature, and there’s a light breeze and natural shaded areas. The bottom is sandy and pebbly. The water is shallow enough for children and deep enough to jump from the top of the waterfall.
During the dry season, many Panamanian families come here to cool off.
Yet the place retains a very peaceful atmosphere.
You can easily spend half a day here swimming, picnicking, and relaxing.
As always, it’s important to stay vigilant. Water levels can rise rapidly after heavy rains in the mountains.
Good to Know
- Travel time from Casa Fofo: 55 to 70 minutes.
- About a 15- to 20-minute walk.
- Make sure to bring a few dollars in cash.
- Proper footwear is strongly recommended if you decide to park farther away and walk to the waterfall (about 15 minutes).
Which tour should I choose?
Every site has its own personality.
La Nativa will appeal to those who love authentic places and meeting the locals.
La Gloria will impress lovers of sweeping landscapes and photography.
El Retiro will be perfect for a relaxing day by the water.
Ultimately, there is no single best choice. It all depends on what you’re looking for.
A Few Tips Before You Go
Before leaving Casa Fofo, always remember to check the weather. In the mountains, a beautiful morning can quickly give way to a tropical downpour.
Don’t forget:
✔ good walking shoes;
✔ a swimsuit;
✔ a lightweight towel;
✔ plenty of water;
✔ mosquito repellent;
✔ some small bills for any entrance fees or services offered by locals.
And most importantly…
Please respect the area. Pick up your trash!
These waterfalls often flow through private land or villages that welcome visitors with great warmth.
Preserving these places is the best way to ensure that future generations can enjoy them as well.
Our Perspective
What we love about this region is its incredible diversity.
In less than two hours, you can go from the beaches of San Carlos to the mountains covered in tropical rainforest.
You can start your day with your feet in the black sand of Playa La Ensenada…
…and end it by a waterfall, lulled only by the sound of the water and the birdsong.
It’s this contrast that makes this part of Panama so endearing.
And that’s exactly what we want to share with you through this series of articles dedicated to the hidden treasures around Casa Fofo.
